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Winter hunting is the best time for hunting over any other season.

Sure it’s cold out, but come on, that’s why we have insulated gear and toe warmers. Tough it out, be one of the brave few, and put yourself in position to be successful while there’s still time left in the season.

Here are the 15 reasons why winter rules all when it comes to hunting.

15. Snow for tracking animals
There is a large blank sheet of snow out there and the feet of your game are writing the story of the wilderness and what happens there. Track your game carefully on a fresh trail and it will lead you directly to them.

14. Blood trails
If you hit your game, especially when hunting larger game with archery equipment, snow is the best way to track using a blood trail. Red lettering on a white back ground is as bold as those rough graded test papers that we remember from school; it really stands out. Use this to your advantage.

13. The winter blizzard hunt
This season I walked up on a doe in a sub zero degree winter blizzard and I could have touched her. She was bedded down trying to keep the wind and snow off her nose and I was wearing many layers of warm clothing and a military surplus white parka. In essence, I was invisible to her. She could not see me, hear me or smell me do to the high winds and snow white out conditions.

12. Winter white clothing
As mentioned in #13, become the snow and disappear.

11. Lack of insects
No biting bugs to distract you at all.

10. Only the hardcore hunters will share the woods with you
Many people are not fans of being cold and the couch and a football game are so tempting to them.

9. Animals have settled into a winter cycle
Snow has been on the ground and the cold has been there. Nothing new and the animals can be patterned easier.

8. Lack of water and mud
It’s all locked up in the ice. Hunting those swamps and crossing lakes and creeks (ice permitting) has become a breeze!

7. The aesthetics
The beauty of the woods under a coating of snow is that of amazing proportions.

6. Leaf-free sight lines
The hunter can see game much farther due to the lack of foliage.

5. Use a sled
Easier to drag large game out on snow.

4. Your hunting area shrinks
For deer hunting, deer may tend to “yard up” in the later winter months to conserve energy. This means less area for the hunter to cover.

3. Bait to your advantage
For states that allow baiting, game (especially deer) will hit the bait piles hard when the snow rolls in and the drifts get deeper.

2. Blaze orange
Snow offers the hunter wearing hunter blaze orange more visibility with its contrast on the white snow offering added safety.

1. Cool equipment
Snow shoes and skis can be used to access those back country and hard to reach areas.

Get out there and enjoy winter hunting, it’s the best!

For more reasons winter hunting is better, visit WideOpenSpaces.com.

If crows aren’t the smartest bird around, they’re close. It’s impossible sneak up on one. So how do you shoot one, much less a whole “murder’ of them? (Yes, that’s the name for a flock of crows.) Try calling them – that’s when they seem to go brain dead.

These five basics will give you a pile of crows. (I call a flock of dead ones a “pile.”)

Consider your set-up. You want to be well hidden. My favorite set-up is right in the middle of a cedar thicket. My partner and I will get so deep in a cedar clump that we can see only a 20 or 30 square foot area right above us.
If you don’t have any cedar brush then hide in the middle of any thick brush. Get camo’ed up and wear a facemask. Grab your shotgun and some high brass shells loaded with number 6-shot. You can use low base 8s for a denser pattern, but I like the heavier loads.

Get a good call. Lay it with the horn pointing upwards in the direction you expect them to come from. I first select the crow/owl fighting sound. Turn it on and get ready.

Time to shoot. My brother-in-law is a good crow hunter and always tells me to not take long shots but to let them circle and come back in right over head. So we don’t start shooting until they’re right over us. If the brush you’re in has small open patches you may be able to get a visual on them, but if not they may suddenly appear out of nowhere. You may or may not hear them first, so be ready for some fast shooting.

His theory is that if they don’t see you, you can clean house on them if you don’t miss. That’s not just a theory – it really works in practice. Sometimes they’ll be coming in so fast I can’t even keep my gun loaded, so wear a shell vest and keep lots of shells handy. They’ll literally circle over you, and often zip in skimming the treetops. So, it’s best if you’re in a clump of trees no more than 20 feet high. If you’re hidden in a tall clump of trees then of course they’ll be a lot higher up.

Switch up the call. If hawks live in the area (and they almost surely do) try the crow/hawk fighting selection. Recently in Texas a hawk was flying around our setup so we used the hawk option. When things die down, switch again to the dying crow – that’ll wake ’em up!

Pull out the dekes. Crow, owl and hawk decoys are popular. Sometimes after a morning coyote hunt I’ll still have my Cass Creek Waggler with me and we’ll start crow hunting. After I’ve shot a couple if I’ll turn it on, and it attracts the crow using both sight and sound. I turn on the crow call option on along with my Johnny Stewart call to really raise a ruckus. If you wound one they’ll really swarm in. Live ones are the best decoy you can have.

I dropped by my gunsmithing buddy Ed Sweet’s shop yesterday and was talking to him about how much fun I’d been having crow hunting. He said Bob Martin (a 5-time world champion crow hunter at least – I’ve lost count) called him a few years ago to come down south to crow hunt. They killed somewhere around 900 crows in three days. And while crow hunting in Texas the other day I was shooting the bull with a guy who said he hunted a flyway to a roost and would get 150 in an afternoon.

So, set ups near a good roost, or along flyways or feeding areas are top spots. But I live in Idaho and we don’t have those quantities. Still, to me it’s still lots of fun if we can get 4-8 per stand. A few weeks ago I was coyote hunting with Trace Nuckles in Kansas and one afternoon I bet we had 60 come in while we were calling coyotes. We didn’t have a shotgun or we could have smoked ’em.

If you live near a hot and heavy flyway, get out and have fun. But even if you don’t, it will surprise you how many you will be able to call in at each set-up.

Shooting crows is almost as good for the environment as shooting wolves. They prey big-time on desirable species, and they compete with humans for food. When the walnuts ripen the crows will move in and eat every one unless you pick ’em fast. This year I was conducting a lot of seminars around the country and when I got home I found one solitary walnut – crows ate all the rest.

EXTRA TIPS:

• You’ll call in a few crows while calling coyotes, especially right after daylight.
• A hand call works, but with a Johnny Stewart electronic call, you keep your hands free.
• A modified choke is probably best.
• Start shooting when they’re right over the top of you.

For more information on the basics of crow hunting, please visit Havalon.com.

Hunters have been pursuing the Eastern cottontail ever since the time of the earliest Native Americans. Although hunter numbers have declined from peak numbers, rabbit hunting still remains extremely popular overall and is one of the most popular small game pursuits. However, the dynamics of hunting cottontails have changed dramatically, and to achieve consistent success in the field, hunters must adapt to the new age of rabbit hunting.

Bunny Facts:

The number of rabbit hunters has declined through the years. Even so, rabbit hunting is still popular. According to recent surveys, approximately 1.5 million people hunt rabbits and/or hares. Rabbit/hare hunting ranked as the fourth most popular hunting endeavor, tied with pheasant hunting and behind only whitetail deer, turkey, and squirrel. Rabbit hunting ranked more popular than waterfowl and dove hunting, as well as all other species such as elk, bear, and others.

THE DECLINE
A decade or two ago, finding rabbits was really not all that difficult. They are well known as prolific breeders, and though population numbers may take a dip in years with extremely bad weather, numbers bounce back rather quickly after weather improves. Back in the day, there was also ample habitat. Now rabbit habitat is shrinking every year. There is more predation. The outcome: rabbit populations, although still very good, are not what they used to be. Going out on the back 40 and kicking brush rarely results in bagging a limit of cottontails.

Shrinking habitat has not only reduced rabbit numbers, but it has also reduced hunter access and allowed predators easier opportunities to bag a bunny for dinner. The proliferation and expanding populations of coyotes throughout the cottontail range—plus numbers of domestic feral cats at an all-time high—has only increased predation on rabbits. All of these habitat and predation factors have led to changes in rabbit location and behavior.

WHERE THEY HIDE
Rabbits are found most anywhere they can find food sources and cover (for hiding from predators and also thermal protection from the elements). In most locations, sparse cover does not hold rabbits like it once did. Hunters must concentrate on areas with denser and more abundant cover to find rabbits in good supply.

An exception to this rule is near dwellings, barns, oilrigs, and other areas with a consistent amount of human activity. Coyotes and many other predators steer clear of areas where people are constantly present, but a rabbit will hang out in brush or other thick foliage and disregard most human activity. In the last decade or so, it seems they have increased their attraction to these areas and are even more numerous in urban areas than the past. Regardless, areas with human activity, sufficient cover, and a lack of predators are prime locations for finding rabbits.

As mentioned, rabbits in more remote areas are found mostly in the thicker cover than in places with thin cover. Rabbits have always liked thick cover; that is no surprise. The difference is that they are found less in other areas than in the past. When I first began rabbit hunting, it was very common to walk into a field of grass and jump a few rabbits just walking around or to kick an isolated clump of cover and reasonably expect a rabbit to come darting out. That just isn’t the case anymore.

Hunters must hit sparse cover early in the season for any success at all. This is especially true in agricultural areas, as rabbits forced from row crop fields during harvest often take cover along the edges. However, within a short period of time, they are either decimated by predation or they move to thicker, safer locations.

The absolute best locations for finding rabbits are areas with extremely dense cover. Gnarly tangles of briars, thorns, honeysuckle, and brush are difficult to reach for coyotes and foxes and make great locations for rabbits to hide from birds of prey. Likewise, they are hard to “kick up” by walking hunters. Rabbits hold much tighter in these areas and often do not jump unless almost stepped on or forced out by a rabbit dog willing to bury deep into cover. Having good rabbit dogs—especially one or two good “jump” dogs—is what often spells the difference in success these days. Dogs that skirt the edges of cover are not going to get up a lot of bunnies.

WATCH THEM RUN
“There he goes,” is a common phrase shouted by hunters as the rabbit bolts from cover and streaks off down the field edge or across an open area to the next patch of thick cover. Hunters then try to determine which direction the rabbit is going and get in a position to intercept it and have a shooting opportunity when the rabbit circles back near the jump location. That part hasn’t changed, but what has changed in many cases is how a rabbit runs and circles.

Cottontails have a relatively small home range and are well familiar with their local surroundings. They do not like to leave this comfort zone. Therefore, a cottontail often darts out and puts as much distance as possible between it and the pursuing dogs. Then it slows down or stops and waits. As the dogs following the scent trail get near, the rabbit moves again. Eventually, it makes its way back to or near the original jump site.

Most times, this jump and circle does not cover a large distance. It all depends upon the habitat and how cover is positioned. But usually a circle is within 100 yards or so. However, in areas where rabbits are constantly pressured by predators, especially along strips of cover between two crop fields, rabbits these days run much farther before turning and starting to circle. In recent years, I have seen numerous rabbits pop out of cover and run full speed along the edge of a field until they are completely out of sight. We have to accept this as the new norm and be willing to work a little harder to get into position for a shot.

KICKING THEM UP
In contrast to the propensity of cottontails to locate and hold tight within the thickest cover to be found, there are still possibilities today for finding “easy” rabbits. Even with all the changes in habitat, predation, and rabbit behavior, it is still possible to bag a few rabbits without having dogs. However, hunters must choose hunting locations wisely and then be willing to put in some sweat equity if they are to enjoy a hot plate of rabbit stew.

Some of the best locations to walk up a few rabbits are the aforementioned areas of human activity. Around barns, stored farm implements, automotive junkyards, grown-up spots around ponds, and other areas located where humans are close by are great spots for kicking brush. The best locations are isolated away from woods. Look for places where coyotes, foxes, and bobcats would have to cross wide-open fields to reach.

A FULL GAME BAG
Rabbit hunting is a tremendous amount of fun, and, of course, rabbits are one of the tastiest wild game meals to make an appearance on the dinner table. Rabbits may not be as easy to find now. Finding quality rabbit habitat and obtaining permission to hunt it is not what it once was, either. Nonetheless, with a little more work, a friend or two, and perhaps a couple of good dogs (or even a whole pack), rabbit hunting is as much fun and as rewarding as ever. Time spent in the field, the camaraderie, and the “gourmet” dining experience all combine to make any extra effort well worthwhile.

For more information about the Cottontail Rabbit, please visit RealTree.com.

In Missouri, Dove hunting ends at the end of November, so get your shots in now to catch one of these beautiful birds.

Many hunters regard dove season as more than just another shooting sport; it’s a chance to spend time with family and friends and the perfect opportunity to introduce a youngster or newcomer to the sport of hunting.

Equipment and preparation wise, dove hunting is simple, especially compared to other types of wing-shooting. Skillwise, it’s notoriously difficult. Doves are small, fast and acrobatic. Consistently knocking them down can prove quite tricky.

Patrick Flanigan, an exhibition shotgunner (and seven-time shotgunning world record holder), typically does pretty well on a dove field. But he says you don’t have to be a professional shotgunner to be a great dove shot — in fact, most hunters, new and experienced alike, can probably have better hunting this fall by just remembering a few of these tips.

1. Open the choke: Use a modified or improved-cylinder choke tube to provide you with a wider pattern. Many people use too tight of a choke for dove hunting. A tight pattern makes most shots in a dove field more difficult to hit — and it will destroy your bird if you do connect at close range.

2. Upsize your pellets: Most people use 7 ½ or 8 shot for doves, but at close range, there are so many pellets in those shells that you can pulverize your birds. Plus, those tiny pellets quickly lose energy at longer range. Flanigan likes to upsize his pellets for doves — say to 4s, 5s or 6s. He says there are still plenty of the larger pellets for a dense pattern, but the knock-down power is better at longer range.

3. Exaggerate your lead: Overshoot like you’re going to miss. You’ll shoot at most doves as they cross in front of you. Work at over exaggerating your lead by six feet or more, which means your barrel needs to be six inches in front of the dove. One inch of barrel movement equals about one foot of distance when you’re shooting targets in the air.

4. Stay flat-footed: Your shooting stance is extremely important. Flanigan stresses the importance of staying flat-footed. If you’re out in a cornfield standing on divots and rough ground, patch up that small area beneath your feet so you have a level spot to stand.

5. Focus on gun mount: Make sure you mount the gun correctly. Take your time when shouldering on an approaching bird, and make sure your cheek is on the stock. Otherwise, you’ll shoot high.

6. Shoot while sitting: Many shots in the dove field happen fast, and you need to shoot while sitting. Try to maintain good form and continue to focus on your gun mount. If possible, practice shooting a few clays from a sitting position before season.

7. Going away: When a dove comes in from behind you and passes in front of you, use a front lead to catch up to it. This means you’ll actually need to aim a few inches below the bird to shoot in front of it. Envision floating the bird on your gun barrel as you press the trigger.

8. Pick a bird: When doves approach in a group, don’t get distracted and start shooting at the mass because you’ll likely miss. Focus on one bird and stick with it until it falls.

9. Coming in: When a dove is descending over decoys or about to land on a fence, power line, crop field, etc., let it begin its descent and begin your swing below it. Just as the gun barrel blocks the bird from sight, hit the trigger.

10. Try decoys: Decoys aren’t necessary, but they can help you get closer shots at times. Try spacing four or five decoys out and double up a pair or two. No pattern is necessary. Spinning-wing dove decoys also offer added attraction from a distance (but make sure they’re legal to use in your hunting area).

For more information on Dove Hunting, please visit Realtree.com.

Woodchuck Hunting Season ends December 15th, so if you’re trying to catch one of these little guys before the end of the season, take a look at these tips…

Before the grass grows up and hides them, groundhogs are vulnerable now on the edges of sun-struck fields. Bust out a flat-shooting rifle and help landowners who complain that these rodents perforate their pastures.

Hunt the Habitat
Look for den entrances beneath stumps and brush piled up from land-clearing projects. Woodchucks den along the edges of rock walls at old homesites, on steep banks covered in kudzu and weeds, and under old farm buildings.
Search for groundhogs in apple orchards, where they climb trees to steal apples and to avoid predators. Look along the edges of fields of corn, soybeans, and wheat.

How do you know if the den is occupied? If you see flies and gnats swarming around its opening, it’s in use. Keep it in view and wait for the occupant to emerge.

The Strategic Shot
Watch swirling winds—at your location, but also at your target’s—not only because of their influence on bullets but because woodchucks have an uncanny sense of smell.

Because you’ll face shots in excess of 200 yards, always use a rangefinder and shooting sticks. When possible, use a fully adjustable bipod, since the adjusted legs can help you when shooting on sloped terrain. Bipods with legs 20 inches or longer can also help you position your rifle above tall grasses in hayfields.

Time Afield
Groundhogs are most active on warm summer days and afternoons, but they can occasionally be found out on overcast early spring days. On sunny days, woodchucks enjoy lounging and sunning atop logs, boulders, and other flat, warm surfaces.

For more tips on hunting woodchucks, please visit OutdoorLife.com.